Loreto Area Cruisers Guide
This document is a work in progress…last modified 1/2017
Disclaimer: businesses come and go, and move. Some of this information has been fleshed out using the “2015 Loreto Resource Directory.” Hours of operation and phone numbers not verified. Many of these listings we do not have personal experience with.
Anchoring: consult your favorite cruising guide for the islands.
Loreto (the town)
The easiest way to shop is to anchor off Loreto if it is a nice day. We have found good holding at the following coordinates (depth typically 20 feet or less).
26 00 801N 111 20 169W
26 00 875N 111 20 158W
26 00 842N 111 20 166W
26 00 806N 111 20 187W
It IS an open roadstead so conditions will vary, pay attention to weather reports. Anchor right off the town either slightly north or south of or parallel to the little panga harbor. Depths typically under 20 feet. If we think it might get choppy, we try to get in and out by early afternoon. You may bring up some grassy objects when you raise your anchor.
We have anchored overnight on occasion, but other, more protected anchorages such as Ballandra and Marquer at Isla Carmen are not far away. Lots of folks anchor overnight when the conditions are nice. Cruisers we know anchored off town for about 7 consecutive days (some Wi-Fi may be obtained!) in May 2016.
Dinghy into the small panga harbor and immediately to your left, tie your dink to the first dock. The nice thing about this dock is a taxi can drive almost all the way down to your dink, if you are doing some shopping. Have some change with you so if any local kids are around and want to help you at the dock, you can help THEM out.
We like to start with a nice breakfast at Loreto Isla (colorful building just south of Mission Hotel on the Malecon) or buffet breakfast (200p Sundays only as of 5/2016) at the Mission Hotel to eat and enjoy some Wi-Fi, then take care of our errands. It’s easy enough to walk just about everywhere. Occasionally we walk TO our destination, then if we have a big load (groceries or laundry for example), then we’ll take a taxi back to the harbor, around 100 pesos or less. In 2015 we used Jose 52 613 121 6327 a few times for taxi service (he has a van, still in business 5/2016).
Candeleros/Esenada Blanca (south of Puerto Escondido and Loreto)
- There are several trash cans on the beach, this is really your first, best place to dispose of trash north of La Paz.
- Villa Del Palmar Resort(at Candeleros, south of Ligui)
Anchor here and you can patronize the Villa Palmar Hotel restaurants, Wi-Fi, convenience store (mostly snacks and beverages), and the nice Palapa (on the left as you approach the pools) has burgers, pizza, tacos, etc. We have been up here two different years to have breakfast and watch the Indy 500 on their satellite television.
- Park or anchor your dinghy and walk to the stairs (see the shower to wash your feet!) to access the hotel. There may be a security guard to greet you and perhaps write down your boat name. He/she may direct you to the front desk for a wrist band to identify you. Bring cash in various denominations if you want to eat/drink as most guests are on a package plan and so the staff doesn’t have to run to the front desk to make change. It’s a lovely place, at least walk around and have a look, the multiple pools form a big turtle. You may want to stay here or have friends/family visit you sometime. Take a tour of the spa if you are so inclined, Julie was impressed with it.
- Sometimes you can use the hotel pool also, in 2015 & 2016 this has required you to purchase a “day pass” for about $65-69 (U.S.)/pp that includes all you can eat food and drinks from morning to 6 pm. Buying drinks and using the lounge chairs doesn’t seem to be a problem.
- There is a Hertz car rental counter in the lobby of the hotel, they usually have cars onsite – versus waiting for a car to be brought down to Puerto Escondido. We have rented a car here a couple times to get into Loreto for shopping and to visit San Javier. Special 5/2016 was $37 a day (rental including Mexican liability coverage) for a small car that was very drivable for the San Javier trip.
- Hotel number is 52 613 134 1000 and they can transfer you to the rental car desk.
- Cellular service is back in this anchorage! 3-4 bars on our ATT phone.
- Dinghy up to the northwest corner of the Candeleros bay (you’ll see some tall flagpoles which mark a park there) and walk about a half mile into the village of Ligui/Ensenada Blanca for a nice little market (look where the fishing pangas and trailers are located, to find the road into the village). This tienda also has a sister store right along Highway One, so they may be able to bring things in that you are lacking. They have some produce (better some days of the week than others, dairy products, bread, canned goods, some frozen meats, soda & juices, Magnum bars!
- Ligui General Store
- VHF Radio – channel 12 (2014?)
- They have a little of everything from limited fresh produce (delivery days might be Tuesday and Friday) to general provisions to boats needs and hardware items
Puerto Escondido (formerly Fonatur) Marina and harbor UPDATED 11/2016 – call on channel 16 for slip availability (minimal), or a mooring ball assignment. Or, just come into the harbor (we have fund minimum depth of 10 feet), and take a mooring, then go to the office to check in. The balls closest to the marina are reserved for larger vessels. The moorings were re-done after Hurricane Odile (price is the same for mooring ball or anchoring). The yellow float pickups are easy enough for a blonde (me) to grab on the first try.
613 131 8097 613 133 0189 613 133 0899
Harbormaster Javier Fuerte (11/2016)
Office Manager Maki (11/2016)
Wi-fi was working out into the anchorage (with our booster antenna) in October 2016. Anchor at the very north of the main harbor near the “windows” and you can likely access a cellular/banda ancha signal.
* Gas and diesel are available at the fuel dock. We haven’t heard of any “outages” over the last 4-6 weeks or so that we have been in the area. Water can be obtained from the fuel dock and we have heard as it is quite pure as it comes from a natural source nearby (Steinbeck Canyon?).
The swimming pool is still there, upstairs in the marina complex.
- There is also another newer set of docks behind the boat yard, boats with deep draft might have a hard time getting in. Marina Puerto Escondido. Many boats up to 40 feet would probably fit in there fine.
- The restaurant space upstairs at Fonatur (formerly Pedro’s Portobello) has been redone, looks really nice, we had a lovely dinner there in 11/2016. This restaurant is affiliated with the more affordable Hotel Tripui restaurant about a mile away, and they will provide transportation to Tripui upon request. We had a very nice fish dinner at Tripui 5/2016 (Laundry service also available @ Tripui – 2-3 loads for about 200p 5/2016)
- To access Loreto from Puerto Escondio, there are a few options. Have/make friends with a car, ask on the morning VHF net if someone can provide a ride to town, have Marina Fonatur or Carol’s tienda order a rental car for you (they are delivered to the marina from town, about 650p for a day). Hire a taxi to take you around town (500 pesos for several hours? – not positive of the going rate).
- The Waiting Room is mostly private moorings, anchoring is possible but depths are ~60 ft. You’ll want to anchor on the west portion fairly near to the channel – as there may be abandoned moorings you could snag further into the basin. You pay at the API building across from the waiting to be there. Wi-Fi, also obtained at API office (from Avantek), can be decent if you have a booster antenna. About 100p for a week’s connection.
- Across from the Waiting Room and south of the API pier, is a free anchorage, albeit deep-ish around 40 ft. Unknown at this time if the API/Avantek Wi-Fi works here.
- The Ellipse is (private?) moorings and anchorage, possibly pay API to be there. Or there may be new ownership. Unknown at this time if the API/Avantek Wi-Fi works here.
Nopolo (between Puerto Escondido and Loreto)
You can access the Inn at Loreto Bay restaurant (and perhaps use the pool?). We had a nice taco lunch there in 2013…a little touristy pricing but tolerable. Walk down the beach a little south of the hotel and look for a pathway through the buildings. Along those pathways you will likely find a trash receptacle or small dumpster and if you continue walking you’ll come to a boulevard with a few eating places and shops including a mini-mart. One spot that friends like is a Wine Cellar Nopolo that has tapas (see restaurant listings below). Towards the very north end of the boulevard (where it starts to curve) is Pedro’s small delicatessen tienda and he now owns the restaurant next door, we are hoping to try it in 2016.
We haven’t done it yet, but if you dinghy around the south side of the Inn, and look for the estuary to the south of the hill, you can dinghy in to another hotel with small marina that is supposed to have a decent breakfast.
San Javier (Mission)
- If you haven’t visited San Javier yet, it is well worth the drive, read our post at http://cuisinemarine.com/san-javier/. It is about a 35 minute drive each way from the turnoff at Highway One. There are usually a few dodgy bits to the road but very passable in an ordinary car, we last went there in early May 2016. The Palapa restaurant just to the right of the church has a nice breakfast. Buy some guava paste to go if you like a treat. Definitely walk back behind the church to the right, to see the ancient olive tree and walk down the pathway to see a few agriculture fields and the water supply.
If any of these phone numbers are incorrect, Marina Fonatur or Carol’s MiniMart at Fonatur can assist you.
Alamo (last used 5/2015)
Delivers to Pto. Esco.
One day car rental about $55 + $15 delivery charge. Includes required liability insurance.
Baja Rents (last used 6/2015)
Delivers to Pto. Esco., may be slightly less cost than other companies.
(on the malecon) Lopez Mateos #56 Sur
One day rental with delivery to Puerto Escondido – 800 pesos includes required liability insurance and 90% car value.
Hertz (also at Hotel Villa Del Palmar, see info above)
delivered car to Marina Fonatur
Fox (last used 11/2014)
$75/day will all insurance 2015
2014 – 650p/day with required liability insurance for dropoff at Marina Fonatur/Puerto
office in Loreto on Hidalgo
613 135 1149
Delicatessen (formerly Dali) (last visited 5/2016)
Specializing in gourmet items, international ingredients, cheeses, spices, condiments, wines, vast selection of frozen meats like thick pork chops, steaks, lamb, organic chicken breasts, wine cellar from about 100p, Italian and other sausages, lots of goodies from Costco.
Monday – Saturday? Proprietor Pedro Lopez ran the tienda and Porto Bello restaurant at Marina Fonatur for many years.
On Benito Juarez between Ayuntamiento y Marques de Leon, and at least a few blocks past the Ferramar chandlery and on the opposite side of the street. Two story, big green banner that you can’t miss. (directly across the street from their former location in 2015, 2014)
613 135 0733 Also? 613 135 2477
El Pescador (last visited 5/2016)
The second largest supermarket. Seems to have improved since Ley came to town. We bought some frozen shrimp there recently that was quite good. A few more “gringo” items here (canned diced tomatoes for example) than Ley carries, even a few Costco items are seen. Meat counter (their thick cut bacon is lovely), sometimes Johnsonville sausages, general groceries, frozen green beans (otherwise hard to find), liquor and wine.
Salvatierra at Indepencia (at the traffic light).
613 135 0060
Juarez Market (last visited 5/2015)
Small market that has a nice corner of “gringo” goodies including some treats from Costco. Kirkland sea salt crinkle-cut potato chips, anyone? Produce, meat counter and canned goods.
Benito Juarez near the roundabout at Ugarte and Salvatierra and next door to the Coppel Store.
Opens at 7:00 AM
Cactus Liqores (last visited 5-2016)
Liquors and decent wine selection. Good prices, where the gringos go.
Friends swear by the 5 litre Chauvenet white wine (we think its very drinkable too),
Hidalgo, a little east of Indepencia
In 2015, a new place on Benito Juarez a little east of Indepencia, north side of street.
Bodega Aurrera (last visited April 2015)
(a Walmart affiliate), smaller than the outlets in Constitucion and La Paz
Staple items, some produce and cold items, nothing special in our opinion but must be a good place for the locals to bulk buy.
Independencia – a few blocks north of Super Ley Grocery
Super Ley Express (last visited May 2016)
Opened in 2013. Biggest supermarket in town. We like their fresh English muffins and bagels (rarely seen in Mexico). Really good produce selection, and good quality.
Indepencia, 2 blocks north of Benito Juarez
Has ATM machines affiliated with major banks, we have used many times with no problems.
El Gavilan – Semillas y Especias (last visited 5/2015)
Condiments, beans bulk herbs, spices, nuts, grains, dried fruits, international ingredients like coconut milk, gluten free items. Also some frozen prepared items. Proprietor Gabriel Vasquez is a treasure. Ask him for his Chilean raisins. His olive oil (in unmarked bottle) is very nice too.
613/108 3437 613 137 2700 613 135 2331
Salvatierra @ Indepencia across from Pescador market
Benito Juarez (south side of street) between Indepencia and Guerrero, a little east of Ferremar. Try the (baked? Fried?) crispy flour tortillas – they don’t always have them, they are great as crackers!
Raygoza Green market (last visited 4/2015)
Prepatoria 50, Independencia and go about 9 blocks north of Salvatierra to a 4-way stop. Turn right on Prepatoria and go about 300 feet to a green building on the right
Delicatessen branch – Pedro’s tienda in NOPOLO last visited 5/2016
Better stock in the Loreto location, but he can bring items down to Nopolo store. And, he now owns the restaurant next door.
613 135 0733 ? 135 2499
Hardware, Electrical and Plumbing supplies
El Arco (last visited 5/2016)
Hardware, electrical, plumbing, tools. Part of a chain.
Salvatierra #123 near Deportiva
Mon – Fri 8 AM – 7 PM
Sat 8AM -3 PM
613 135 2528
across from FerreMar on Benito Juarez
Madero just north of Baja California
Was closed the day we tried to visit 5/2016.
Self-Serve at Marina Fonatur (last used 5/2016)
Buy tokens at the marina office, 30 pesos per load (wash or dry)
Cold water only
Lavanderia La Rana (last visited 3/2015)
Wash and fold, very reasonable. (drop-off) same day service possible, we usually pick up the next day. They don’t use smelly soaps.
Benito Juarez #85 – several blocks west of Ferremar, same side of streeet look for frog logo
613 135 1383
(2014?) Tripui Hotel, Puerto Escondido – 75p per load
Boating/fishing/dive-snorkel gear/batteries/hardware/batteries/cleaning supplies, pieces and parts, camping gear, coolers, even vacuum seal bags and sealers (southern Baja chain with stores in La Paz and Constitucion)
Benito Juarez, Maybe 4-5 blocks west of the Malecon, will be on your right. Blue Building.
USA Warehouse 619-710-1421
El Tigre Auto Parts (last visited 2014)
Bought battery cable there 11/2014)
One of the side streets between Juarez & Salvatierra?
Chino Auto Parts (last visited 6/2015)
Juarez at Ventura 135-1720
Batteries, Auto Parts, oil, pretty good inventory
Baleros and Retainers Seals & Bearings
Off Indepencia just a little south of Salvatierra
Just past Super Burro, turn right at the Y – it’s on your right
613 135 1709
Open til 6 weekdays, til 2 on Saturday
Sister store is on Hwy 1 in Constitucion
Fishing licenses and park permits
at the base of the town pier
PEMS Maritime Service
Elvin Schultz (VHF 22: Sealover)
Marina Fonatur boat yard/Puerto Escondido
Haulouts and repairs, some outboard repair – stocks little to no parts! Ask us personally for more info.
www.PEMSinPE.com – also an online guide to local vendors & services
Carlos Cristiani Cruz Diving Services
Puerto Escondido – Street Level of the Fonatur Building. Bottom Cleaning, Diving and underwater maintenance.
613 131 8098 613 109 2013
Restaurants & Take Out
BBQ thatfriends like, we haven’t tried yet
salvatierra just off malecon
Del Borracho Saloon & Grill (last visited 5/2016)
One of our favorites. Western themed, nice gringo owners Vince & Maria. Great burgers, great brunch on Saturday and Sunday, Often you’ll find sporting events on their televisions, and a western movie with the sound off.
613 109 3001
San Javier Rd. a little south of Loreto off Hwy 1 .4 km west of Hwy 1
Weds. – Fri. 11 am – 6 pm. Sat./Sun. 9 am – 6 pm – Limited hours in summer
Sea Coffee (last visited 10/2016)
Wi-fi has been good
Hidalgo #66, a block or two east of Cactus Liquors on same side
El Rey del Tacos
9 am – 2 pm, seems to be open when they feel like it
Benito Juarez between Misioneros and Suarez
Fish tacos, where the locals go! get there early
Ette’s Pies (last visited 5/2016)
hand made pies in many flavors, frozen chicken pot pies, cinnamon rolls some days. Tuesday-Saturday 9 am – 6 pm
Salvatierra near Ignacio Allende east of the Santa Fe Hotel and before the Pemex.
Eat in or take out, whole pies or by the slice. Coffee, sometimes ice cream.
La Picazon (friends were there 5/2016)
Alex and Imelda
Monday-Saturday from noon to 6:00 pm
North of town, via graded road north. By boat is across from Isla Carmen. Shore is rocky so you may need to anchor out your dinghy. Anchoring with your sailing vessel is doable in good conditions, friends on Hylas 54 have anchored there (not overnight).
La Michoacana Ice Cream
Madero between Salvatierra & Benito Juarez, next to Orlandos
Loreto Isla (last visited 5/2016)
Corner of Malecon (Blvd. A. L. Mateos) & Salvateirra, just south of Mission Hotel
Mita Goumet (last visited 5-2014)
Calle Davis #13, on the town square just east of gazebo
Lovely patio, also indoor seating, a little pricier than some of the others but deliciously prepared fish
613 135 2025
Orlando’s (last visited 3/2015)
Madero between Salvatierra & Benito Juarez
Nice outdoor garden setting, try the mango fish
Pan Que Pan
breads and pastries to go, gluten free items. Closest thing to a loaf a French bread that you might find here. We had breakfast there once. Closed Monday.
Hidalgo near Pino Suarez.
Other pastries, breakfast and lunch, pizza, salads
613 101 4544
On the town square, also Benito Juarez? Friends have recommended.
Hwy 1, 3/4 mile south of Salvatierra in Loreto, on the sea side, near the San Javier road. Also recommended by friends.
613 104 8568
Weds. – Sun. 11:30 am – 9 pm
Vista al Mar (Clam Shack) (last visited 3/2015)
Hwy 1, KM 103, right on the beach between Puerto Escondido and Nopolo
Extensive menu, not just clams! Good fish and shrimp tacos
Wine Cellar Nopolo
Lots of ~50p tapas-type dishes, lasagna
Kitty corner from the Inn at Loreto Bay
Mon, Wed. Thurs. Fri. 4:00 to 10:00 PM
Sat. and Sun. 3:00 to 10:00 PM
In Super Ley Express Grocery store – ATM machines affiliated with major banks
Banamex (?) near the town square
Salvatierra at Ayuntamiento (one long block north of Indepencia)
Banda Ancha tech support might not be available in Loreto, perhaps there is someone at the Coppel store on Benito Juarez who can help
Gabriel at El Gavilan can reload phones?
Misc. Shopping, other
New name, formerly El Caballo Blanco Bookstore (last visited 2014)
Paseo Hidalgo #19, 2 blocks west of the Malecon
Selection of “local interest” including Baja nature and history, used English paperbacks
Little shop center at Juarez @ Indepencia
Hwy 1, 3.5 miles south of Loreto and before Nopolo
a little south of the turnoff to San Javier
Salvatierra #85 west of Pescador grocery
(electronics – alternator?) Marco – Salvatierra to school, turn right (at Colima?) then left at empty lots, head down street – home on left side – see mechanic stuff under carport
Dolphin Dive Baja
Scuba Fills & Rentals
Hwy 1 just south of main drag into Loreto
Doctors are available at the hospital – Go into the emergency entrance
(no experience with any of them)
Dr Green – 135-2006 @ the hospital?
Dr Fernando Lopez, goes by dr fernando
613 109 0165 c
613 135 1498
Indepencia bet deportiva and tamaral
Dentist – Dr Jaime Laga Medrano
Located in “Plaza San Javier”
135-1367 – (044)613 109-0477
Juarez near Deleon
Dentist – Dr Eduadrdo Velaquez
Mon – Fri – 9 AM – 1:00 PM & 4:00 PM – 7:00 PM
Sat 9AM – 1:00 PM
Juarez between madero and suarez
Dentist – Salud Dental – Dr Alejandra Dyer
Hidalgo bet misioneros and madero?
Dentist – Ricardo Ramos
Ayuntamiento near indepencia
613 109 0477
Pharmacia del Rosario
Pharmaci, best selection for toiletries
Salvaiterra almost across from Pescador and Benito Juarez near Ferremar
Ayuntamiento (one long block north of Indepencia) right off Salvatierra
Optica Center – Eye Glasses
Salv next to domingos steak house
Loreto Mision & Mision Museum
Mision Nuestra Senora de Loreto
Tours 30 P. per person, signs are in English, te tour takes about an hour.
SAYC-5 Computer Store
Computer sales and service, internet, security systems and surveillance
613 135 0853
Ayuntiamento n of indepencia
“the Chicken Mechanic’
or Marcos Ask Elvin at PEMS for directions
Preperatoria y misioneros
Cell:613 044 111-0302
Injectors Repair – Consititution
Madima – Constitution Alvaro Obbegon y Cuauhtemoc
Metal Fabrication & Stainless Steel – House of Stain Steel
135-1533 — 613 111-8146
Tornillos y Accesories
Hardware with “Hard to Find Stuff”
Independecia near Kino
Shipping – Estafeda
Friends like – South end of Malecon (Blvd. A. L. Mateos) at Baja Calfornia
Older traditional one story hotel. Hammocks on patios type of place. Very laid back, clean, air conditioning, great staff, restaurant on premises.
$70 – $90
We tried their Saturday night buffet 5/2016 – fabulous and a bargain about about $10, included oysters 3 different ways (and chicken and pork and…)
Friends have recommended
Quiet, safe and clean with good Internet. Kind of a modern B&B feel, without the breakfast.
Apx. $59 USD.
About 2 blocks from the malecon, is on a dirt street.
La Damiana Inn B&B
Recommended by friends 2016
613 135 0356
Hotel Angra (last visited 10-2014)
Benito Juarez, across from the larger Pemex
12 rooms, pretty new, decent Wi-fi, A/C, cable with some English channels, private secured parking.
Pedro @ Dali recommends
613 135 1172
Bungalows right on malecon. Clean, older, very laid back place with full kitchens, hammocks on patios, very nice American runs it. Perhaps $60/night. Wonderful to be right on waterfront. Only drawback is some units don’t have full a/c. Friends stayed there and liked it.